Here a post for my racing K2 to share my tunings and collect your enthusiastics advices.  

 

Setup:

V5 frame with SS shield
W-force 58/105 in 58x54 setup pre-owned by Torsten 

Timings 127/192

Casings SIP EVO

Crankshaft dead BGM 54/105

Keihin 35 AS

Extra short CNC intake with integrated stuffer

FAIO eco christmas tree with short 3 / 4, long 1

Primary FAIO on needles

Hartz clutch
Caliper carrier AFparts race v1 proto
Caliper Stage6 MK2 with Ceramic pads
Zip SP1 fork with Stage6 shock
Magura 195 11mm master cylinder

Bearbeitet 19. Juni 20241 J. von keuk

Back from Liedolsheim last week end, it was an awesome week end as usually ! 

 

Fortunatly I was able to ride the whole friday, and make the qualification sessions on saturday to get a nice position on the grid..... but back to the stand.... BUUUUUUUUUUUUUhhhhhhhhhhh
 

Now it's time to take decisions after the struggles of this week end... Crankshaft dead, piston dead, and cylinder in bad shape.

Bearbeitet 18. Juni 20241 J. von keuk

How come the new piston of the Red Evil is so different from the old W-force 58 ? Should I struggle to find the old design only opened in the lower part of the skirt ?

 

Bearbeitet 18. Juni 20241 J. von keuk

vor 7 Minuten schrieb keuk:

How come the new piston of the Red Evil is so different from the old W-force 58 ? Should I struggle to find the old design only opened in the lower part of the skirt ?

 

Don‘t worry about the piston cutout,

if it‘s in the middle or just on the bottom end of the piston skirt. 
It nearly doesn‘t matter. 

Two different references then from Parmakit:

 

Lower cutout: 57070.02

Windows 57052.02

 

Fun fact, I ordered one ref. for a friend on 10pollici, and received the other, It confirms what you say.

Ringpin vom alten Kolben läuft genau über den Boostport. In Kombination mit zu engem Kolbenringspaltspiel kann ich mir das Schadensbild durchaus erklären.

I have a old A piston, for the new platting should I get a A too ? (mine is 57.89 with the wear). For reference the B of my friend, brand new is 57.95.

 

 

Bearbeitet 18. Juni 20241 J. von keuk

@Tim Ey about your suggestion, I should make the modification before the new nickasil, right ? 

 

Lets wait for Tim, but I would say so...otherwise the new plating would be again perhaps compromised. I wouldn't risk having a damaged plating due to modifiying the boost port. Better do the plating later. The 5mm above, where Tim meant to polish should be done perhaps after the plating, as the plating might fill that gap again.

Bearbeitet 18. Juni 20241 J. von Dr.Tyrell

Like this. 

Do it a bit before plating. Plating is just 0.1mm thick. So make sure to not overdo it.

After plating polish it

If I make a 1/100 chamfer, they will remove everything  with the honing tool before plating, won't they? I mean the actual scratches look deeper than 1/100.

Put the phase in after the new nicasil is in, quite easy, i have done it a lot and never has issues

Since all the old plating will be removed, you can carefully polish further in depth in the alumnium. I usually do that by gut feeling. 

The worst case that can happen is that the new plating will allready have a chambfer above the port with a few 1/100 mm depth.