audiard2

your play seems quite anormal....main shaft usually shoved by force in the bearing and can not axialy move....Check it out.... Your trommel verzahnung seem a bit skimmed, don't they?

new jet setting, trying to fullfill the flat spot around 5000. I'm quite sure that my jetting is a bit too rich between 1/4 and 1/2 throttle. I've tried to change my BE3 for a leaner mid range mixer tube: I've modified a BE3 to become slowly a BE2 (4 to 8 1,4 mm holes on the thiny upper part). It became much too leaner with a kick in action delayed the hole number went raising... That was not the good idee! I need a leaner mid range with a kick in action sooner than previously. I got back to the former idle jet 100/50 to fullfill low/mid revs and modified a BE5 by drilling a groove around the lower hole section: bingo! it leans out 1/4 to 1/2 opening and gives a huge amount of gaz on high revs.... Engine is quite different now with torque back at low revs and crazy fly up gears.... Uploaded with ImageShack.us

Danke fuer die uebersetzung!

I mean the fluting on the rear hub that matches those on the main shaft . I found only a shot of my main shaft deadly worn out. My rear hub began to make the same creepy noise as yours just before dying and losing transmission...Whatever if your rear hub is dead watch your main shaft: could be worn out too..... right is worn out: Uploaded with ImageShack.us

sounds like your rear hub is dead....Your alloy fluting are probably worn out.....

Ja noch fahrbach! Du brauchst nur kaltmetal, schweiss und hop! bevor: Uploaded with ImageShack.us nachdem: Uploaded with ImageShack.us

180SS has that bad reputation to seize often because of its too advanced ignition timing and its short gearing that makes it rev too high . If you reduce it (closer to 22-23 °) you loose much of its driving power ....Such a Sophie's choise!

11,9 ps am rad? das ist wenig!

Sorry, I've had a servor problem... The MMW head was mounted for the second run and yes it changes a lot the engine behaviour..... I've changed the jetting for 52/110 and 160/BE3/122 and it kicks a bit sooner and rev higher and faster.....

Danke. Ich war also ein teenager wenn ich habe Deutsch gelernt

zwischen kurbelwelle und getriebenleistung...

du bist richtig!

125° vot / 65 not ist wunderbar! kein problem über das Pleuauge zu fräsen (T5 welle) Uploaded with ImageShack.us

you're right: the new red curve with new jetting and PD. And you're right too: I need to fill the flat spot around 5000. I'm not sure if it's too rich or too lean.... Probably a bit too rich or just the begining of the reso??

I'm just back from the dyno. It's a rainy and moist day in Paris.. Uploaded with ImageShack.us</div> It seems to work fine now. I've lost a bit at bottom end but the gain is enough with an extra 1000 rpm. Pmax is at 7500 with more than 16 hp at the wheel..

you'll have probably more than 125 vot... your crank treatment plus your inlet opening backward make me think you're closer to 130° than 125°. Check it carefully...

danke!

who is dein "spritoptimierungstopic"?

here: Uploaded with ImageShack.us it's a very narrow place and I needed to be carefull not to bend the vaccum hose between rear absorber and frame.... But it seems OK.

too close to the star!

they sure rise their exhausts. A 1mm fudi on a standard cylinder gives around 173°....we're far from 192°!

a 1mm fudi gives you around 120-122° no more (it's what I have on my o-T5). 130° needs a much thicker one... Play it again with: http://www.race-base.com/race-base/home.html

Uploaded with ImageShack.us I can't see the fault you're talking; Marco has written 120/192° on the last of the four curves.. You can't get 15hp with a 116/168 vespa barrel.... 130/192 is still a too high timing for a small capacity engine... Lot of power on high revs but a loosy torkey mule for sure at the bottom...

at least 2,8 mm....

wieviel einlasszeit hast du?