audiard2

nice tip... I'll do it too on my 27/23....

works well like dat: real gaz motorway! race base tells me with a 1mm gasket 126/186° and with 54mm stroke 129,5/187° but piston probably a bit out of the barrel. I have only a 0,5 mm clearance at TDC with a 1mm gasket.... If i use a thicker gasket my timing will be too high....

thanks for your advice: it's not too late to put on the excentric (home) and get a 54mm stroke. I shall wait end of our holydays to go back to the engine. i'm not in a hurry and need to carefully think this thing...54 mm stroke needs a base gasket to avoid piston to go through top of the barrel. therefore i'll get "serious" timing either....I'll make a timing simulation on race base and see what's going on... porting finished: cases have lost around 1kg... Uploaded with ImageShack.us

yes i can raise the barrel about 1mm to line up ports and piston but I need to check new timings. Taffy is silent....I bought the vtronic for T5 but flywheel is heavier (2,025/1,95) than the original... I can remove outer ring with a weight back to 1,1kg. Not enough... So i will test it and see if it needs some radical surgery

1mm QS ist wenig, nein?

thank you for your advice; I haven't a cvf at home so i can not compare the 2 piston tops, but you're right pinasco's head is a crap with a huge chamber ( could be fine for a long stroke) and it has curvy squish band that seems really odd...I'll follow your gentle advice and ask GD what he thinks of matching his mmw head and skr piston... boost port opening is a pleasure maybe my signature in France but as you said before don't know if it gives a damm of anything more. Nevertheless i sleep better: a real performance! it's a Taffy mark IV baught some months ago on scootercenter: a nice and valuable real taffy but maybe done somewhere in the far east... i chose the 1mm base gasket. ports are widdened. Uploaded with ImageShack.us

This is a Malossi for gilera runner ...Hope piston top is close to the one on malossi T5.... http://www.maxiscoot.com/scooter_shop/malossi-piston-mhr-replica-gilera-runner-125-180cc-axe-16mm.html

danke crank-hank; I'll give a look this evening: a bit out of time too...

my new project: a relined "ueberarbeitet" vintage pinasco with malossi 65 mm 125/185°, standard stroke drehschieber crank flowed: 123/65°, Polini/ serie pro packing plate and a PHBH 30, one of the last taffspeed avalable. Guess I will have to work a bit pinasco's head squish to fit the new piston, flatter than the original one.... Uploaded with ImageShack.us Uploaded with ImageShack.us Uploaded with ImageShack.us Uploaded with ImageShack.us Uploaded with ImageShack.us Uploaded with ImageShack.us manifold up to 29,...mm without the pressing-in Uploaded with ImageShack.us case with complete opening to let gaz flow straight to transferts porting still in progress Uploaded with ImageShack.us

In french but explicit to clearly understand the way the emulsion tube works: http://ilcubopiccolo126.free.fr/cours/Carburation/carburation_3.htm

BE2 is the leanest emulsion tube possible at 1/8 to 1/2 throttle opening (and richer at high rev by a balance effect...). Use a richer emulsion tube like BE3 or BE1 My 27/23 was originaly fitted with a BE3 not a BE2...

nevertheless keep an eye (an ear?) on it...

Ja! hammer und schweiss!

evil woman! or evil press! why use such a heavy load for such a small bearing???

was passierte??

Did you rethighten up the rear bold often because of an excessive play of your hub??find metal dust in your hub? Whatever your axial play indicates that your shaft and your bearing are close to their running limit...You'd be a carrefull scooterboy changing all this!

your play seems quite anormal....main shaft usually shoved by force in the bearing and can not axialy move....Check it out.... Your trommel verzahnung seem a bit skimmed, don't they?

new jet setting, trying to fullfill the flat spot around 5000. I'm quite sure that my jetting is a bit too rich between 1/4 and 1/2 throttle. I've tried to change my BE3 for a leaner mid range mixer tube: I've modified a BE3 to become slowly a BE2 (4 to 8 1,4 mm holes on the thiny upper part). It became much too leaner with a kick in action delayed the hole number went raising... That was not the good idee! I need a leaner mid range with a kick in action sooner than previously. I got back to the former idle jet 100/50 to fullfill low/mid revs and modified a BE5 by drilling a groove around the lower hole section: bingo! it leans out 1/4 to 1/2 opening and gives a huge amount of gaz on high revs.... Engine is quite different now with torque back at low revs and crazy fly up gears.... Uploaded with ImageShack.us

Danke fuer die uebersetzung!

I mean the fluting on the rear hub that matches those on the main shaft . I found only a shot of my main shaft deadly worn out. My rear hub began to make the same creepy noise as yours just before dying and losing transmission...Whatever if your rear hub is dead watch your main shaft: could be worn out too..... right is worn out: Uploaded with ImageShack.us

sounds like your rear hub is dead....Your alloy fluting are probably worn out.....

Ja noch fahrbach! Du brauchst nur kaltmetal, schweiss und hop! bevor: Uploaded with ImageShack.us nachdem: Uploaded with ImageShack.us

180SS has that bad reputation to seize often because of its too advanced ignition timing and its short gearing that makes it rev too high . If you reduce it (closer to 22-23 °) you loose much of its driving power ....Such a Sophie's choise!

11,9 ps am rad? das ist wenig!

Sorry, I've had a servor problem... The MMW head was mounted for the second run and yes it changes a lot the engine behaviour..... I've changed the jetting for 52/110 and 160/BE3/122 and it kicks a bit sooner and rev higher and faster.....