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audiard2

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  1. just some old (and accurate) craps about weber carburators to cope with the "braking system" of the mixture tube (emulsion tube): Uploaded with ImageShack.us Uploaded with ImageShack.us Uploaded with ImageShack.us Uploaded with ImageShack.us
  2. got the kürve! unfortunatly it's a dynojet not a P4.. So the power is somewhere between wheel and crank... Big Boss said to me my jetting was too rich at idle/low-mid revs. You were right: I need to lean out a bit my idle and change my mixture tube. I tried this afternoon to fit a 120/BE5/125 and a 110/50. Seems to work perfectly and I can open full throttle without going 4 stroke for a while. I have nothing to lose to test the BE3 next time and see how it works. I lost 0,3 hp just screwing in half a turn the mixture screw!!! I'm a bit surprise of such an effect on the complete range! PEP3 seems to reso a bit too low for the T5. I've ordered a basic star and Marco told me it will be finished today, so i'll get it within a few days in Paris. I've ordered the MMW head too. Thank you for your advice. I will give a look to your link about "SI vergasser und Duesen!" I can read technical german but hardly write it without making such mistakes.... Uploaded with ImageShack.us
  3. News from the west! I've changed my main jetting for a 120/ modified BE4/128 in place of a 120/BE4/125. I had previously tried the 120/BE4/128 but it was clearly a bit too rich. I've rebored 2 of the 4 upper hole on the mixture tube from 1 mm to 1,2 mm to brake a bit more gas flow till higher rpm. Now 128 is just fine and allow the engine to rev a bit higher without any sign of heavy richness. From left to right: BE1- standard BE4-modified BE4/128 Uploaded with ImageShack.us Next step is a dyno on the 20th of march.
  4. before: Uploaded with ImageShack.us after: piston skirt seems fragile so I leave a bit of it on the boost port side Uploaded with ImageShack.us It's an old and crappy spanish T5 without autolub nor starter. It was in a really bad shape when I got it: case broken and welded at the flywheel bearing spot ( hidden behind the stator plate), inlet "ganz" destroyed ( must have swallowed a piece of metal to get such a mess!) and silent blocks out of work: Uploaded with ImageShack.us Uploaded with ImageShack.us I had to reshape the inlet pad with kaltmetal... clutch is 20 tooth and standard T5 gearing. Just a street puller.... I 've made the complete "o-tuning fuer duemmies" on my 200 it works very well too with an ovalized carb. But getting old and wise I'n not sure now it changes really something... So new project and new tests on a complete and straight inlet (almost....) It works like a bullet... I've order a P-D basic star just to see if I can get the last poney out of this engine. Thank you for the link; I'm gonna watch this really carefully...
  5. BE3 is leaner than BE4 (more and bigger holes on BE3 that brake the gaz flow till a higher RPM, so leaner till a higher RPM) useless on a small capacity like a 125CC and usefull for a 170 and more to avoid a too rich idle and mid RPM ( on a SI 24 of course) SIp banded basket cluch with a DR 4 disc in. Works perfectly (not a fooking Cosa clutch....)... The boost port is now really open: Uploaded with ImageShack.us SI ovalisation is a non sens and kills gaz flow speed and venturi advantage... I've tried to make the inlet the most straight possibile and a bit piston oriented: Air filter is just drilled upon the main jet (3mm bore but not upon the idle one: I don't really need to lean out this part of the rpm....) Uploaded with ImageShack.us Uploaded with ImageShack.us Squish is 1- 1,1 mm Is there a MMW spare head in 55mm ?? Uploaded with ImageShack.us
  6. Is your piston still enough guided??
  7. found a 63,4mm on eBay http://www.ebay.com/itm/370543867060?item=370543867060&pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&cmd=ViewItem&hash=item564622b4b4&vxp=mtr#ht_2174wt_1111
  8. here is my Malossi T5 that got an old seizure and 5-6000 km at least on, with the transfert ports same as yours (look the date on the exhaust!): Uploaded with ImageShack.us
  9. Hello ,I'm re opening this thread because I've completed my o-tuning T5 some weeks ago (pictures on T5 o-tuning...) set-up: massive porting and matching case/cylinder inlet: 125/65=190° fudi 1mm Transfert:122° Ex:182° VA:30° SI 24G with standard Idle jet 50/100 and 120/BE4/125 on main I've left the original ignition with a lightened 1,5kg flywheel on. I put a Mytronic (curve 4) to get back some torke at low rev ( advance 23° between 2000- 4500 RPM and 15° around 8000...) Pep3 but it's a shito+ tweak and it makes an awfull tiny noise. The engine is a screamer and begins to deliver a huge load of power from 4800 to ... I don't know: I'm still running in! It seems to me that it's close to a 172 cc but with a restrained bandwith of torke.... I've ordered a basic star to replace the pep3 and i saw in the first post that it was not really " reserverad" tauglich. Marco Rentzmann says it's ok with the stand and the spare wheel for the charger, which is a big brother of the BS. who should I believe???
  10. Nichts hinzufügen!
  11. T5 to be the first at the next red light; 200 to be the first in the next city.... pleasure for the first, security for the second....
  12. No, the piston has, at least, 3mm more of compression height. It's a bigger piston in every way and you need to fit a 110 mm conrod to keep the skirt clear. It's a good thing if you want to put on a LHW (56,5mm) because with his extra compression height, it allows to reduce the extravaganza timing of the porting (>130° with a malossi piston!). Here is a photo: the 2 pistons are linked by the piston gudgeon: Uploaded with ImageShack.us
  13. Yes Brosi, you're right: it's part of the transfert design but however it reduces drasticly (accelerate probably too) the gaz flow. Usefull for a torkey tourer but maybe a brake for higher rev and power. If you give a look at the original cylinder the design inside the transfert is less brutal, more natural as on Pinasco's and polini's... Another view of the smoothening of the "bump" in the transferts: Uploaded with ImageShack.us An original cylinder (a bit shady sorry): transfert design is regular, no bump: Uploaded with ImageShack.us
  14. the solution: wiseco piston and a massive porting ( removing the obstructing bump in the cylinder transfert ports): Uploaded with ImageShack.us Uploaded with ImageShack.us
  15. hello everybody, I've followed this thread from the first to the last post. Nice way to get more power from a o-T5.. I'm on my way to get me a o-tuning T5 too. You can follow the step by step progression in o-french tuning words on http://scootentole.o...t=87763&start=0 you will need to register. just some mecanical specifications: o-zylinder with a massive porting timing with a 1mm thick base gasket: üs:122°/as:182°(68% breite) o-welle with 125°- 65° inlet duration. massive porting of the case transferts and smoothening the toboggans with "kalt metal". Straight inlet with a SI 24G (strickly no ovalisation, for sake!) 120/50 and 120/BE4/122 Squish 0,95mm standard squish band and "brenntraum" a PEP3 exhaust (seems pretty loosy...) 1400 gr polrad with a mytronic unit to get some extra torque at low revs (my only "special" trick on my o-tuning...) It's still "in progress" but it will soon replace my o-tuning px 125... here some pictures: Uploaded with ImageShack.us Uploaded with ImageShack.us Uploaded with ImageShack.us "in progress" right case Uploaded with ImageShack.us Uploaded with ImageShack.us Uploaded with ImageShack.us Uploaded with ImageShack.us
  16. impressive work!!! I like the way you're restauring this SS!
  17. 65-67% 34 mm breite Ich bin damit 3000 km gefarhen... Kein problem Uploaded with ImageShack.us
  18. too bad! guck mal Uploaded with ImageShack.us Uploaded with ImageShack.us Uploaded with ImageShack.us
  19. O-tuning on a GS is easy to do and gives you a much powerfull engine. The only problem with the piston ported cylinder is that you have no place to easely grind boost ports. The two main ports are much smaller than those on the later 200 series.... The "direkt einlass" is a gaz! It works really well and just need to get a longer "einlasszeit" to become really aggressive! I've made a o-tuning on a SS 180 (still a 180 cc no rebore) and it has more power than a stock PX 200. The short gearing makes it rev fast.... wide ported cylinder, US120°/ AS170°, VA 25° 150° inlet vtronic, sip road on a GS exhaust stud here is the link (hope you don't need to register) http://scootentole.o...pic.php?t=83492
  20. So with a 57 mm rod what capacity do you expect?
  21. Piston looks bigger than a standard 125....
  22. Not sure it's a 125 cc! looks like a 150 or 177 DR cover version!!!
  23. Here is my german translation made some times ago. Its full of german faults and I hope nobody will be hurt.... Things have changed by now: I've left the Cosa 2 kopf for a classic PX 125 "uberarbeitetet" ( bigger "brenntraum", shorter squish band), no more Kodi and fudi is by now 2 mm (123° üs), AS is 180°. I put a vtronic instead of the PK lura/ ducati ignition plate. Bedüsung ist 120/BE4/122 and 100/50... Kleine übersetzung fûr unsere deutchen freunde Hallo leute, hier ist mein projekt für einer O-tuning PX 125 E I folgte den anweisungen des O-tunings für dummies auf der GSF lesen. KWgehäuse überarbeitet mit US angepasst, einlass nur ein weinig gefrässt und breitenet Zylinder mit breiteneren US geöffnet als ein Kreidler Van Veen! Auslass breiter und höher geöffnet Originale welle gefrässt am drehshieber (offnung 130° vot so 20° gefrässt vor dem pleuel) und 15° nach OT O kolben geöffnet 2,3mm fudi 0,5mmKodi Cosa 2 kopf 0,86 mm gefrässt QS 1mm PK lüfterrad 1800g, Zündung 16°vot SI 24 G mm vergaser ovaliesiert bedüsung: HD 120/BE4/110-115, LLD 50/100 T5 luftfilter mit offenem herzen SIP road auspuff Die steuerzeiten sind: einlass 130°vot, 50°nOT, total 180° auslass 175° US 125° VA 25° Gruss, Stéphane

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