audiard2

Nichts hinzufügen!

T5 to be the first at the next red light; 200 to be the first in the next city.... pleasure for the first, security for the second....

No, the piston has, at least, 3mm more of compression height. It's a bigger piston in every way and you need to fit a 110 mm conrod to keep the skirt clear. It's a good thing if you want to put on a LHW (56,5mm) because with his extra compression height, it allows to reduce the extravaganza timing of the porting (>130° with a malossi piston!). Here is a photo: the 2 pistons are linked by the piston gudgeon: Uploaded with ImageShack.us

Yes Brosi, you're right: it's part of the transfert design but however it reduces drasticly (accelerate probably too) the gaz flow. Usefull for a torkey tourer but maybe a brake for higher rev and power. If you give a look at the original cylinder the design inside the transfert is less brutal, more natural as on Pinasco's and polini's... Another view of the smoothening of the "bump" in the transferts: Uploaded with ImageShack.us An original cylinder (a bit shady sorry): transfert design is regular, no bump: Uploaded with ImageShack.us

the solution: wiseco piston and a massive porting ( removing the obstructing bump in the cylinder transfert ports): Uploaded with ImageShack.us Uploaded with ImageShack.us

hello everybody, I've followed this thread from the first to the last post. Nice way to get more power from a o-T5.. I'm on my way to get me a o-tuning T5 too. You can follow the step by step progression in o-french tuning words on http://scootentole.o...t=87763&start=0 you will need to register. just some mecanical specifications: o-zylinder with a massive porting timing with a 1mm thick base gasket: üs:122°/as:182°(68% breite) o-welle with 125°- 65° inlet duration. massive porting of the case transferts and smoothening the toboggans with "kalt metal". Straight inlet with a SI 24G (strickly no ovalisation, for sake!) 120/50 and 120/BE4/122 Squish 0,95mm standard squish band and "brenntraum" a PEP3 exhaust (seems pretty loosy...) 1400 gr polrad with a mytronic unit to get some extra torque at low revs (my only "special" trick on my o-tuning...) It's still "in progress" but it will soon replace my o-tuning px 125... here some pictures: Uploaded with ImageShack.us Uploaded with ImageShack.us Uploaded with ImageShack.us "in progress" right case Uploaded with ImageShack.us Uploaded with ImageShack.us Uploaded with ImageShack.us Uploaded with ImageShack.us

impressive work!!! I like the way you're restauring this SS!

65-67% 34 mm breite Ich bin damit 3000 km gefarhen... Kein problem Uploaded with ImageShack.us

too bad! guck mal Uploaded with ImageShack.us Uploaded with ImageShack.us Uploaded with ImageShack.us

O-tuning on a GS is easy to do and gives you a much powerfull engine. The only problem with the piston ported cylinder is that you have no place to easely grind boost ports. The two main ports are much smaller than those on the later 200 series.... The "direkt einlass" is a gaz! It works really well and just need to get a longer "einlasszeit" to become really aggressive! I've made a o-tuning on a SS 180 (still a 180 cc no rebore) and it has more power than a stock PX 200. The short gearing makes it rev fast.... wide ported cylinder, US120°/ AS170°, VA 25° 150° inlet vtronic, sip road on a GS exhaust stud here is the link (hope you don't need to register) http://scootentole.o...pic.php?t=83492

OK thanks!

So with a 57 mm rod what capacity do you expect?

Piston looks bigger than a standard 125....

Not sure it's a 125 cc! looks like a 150 or 177 DR cover version!!!

Here is my german translation made some times ago. Its full of german faults and I hope nobody will be hurt.... Things have changed by now: I've left the Cosa 2 kopf for a classic PX 125 "uberarbeitetet" ( bigger "brenntraum", shorter squish band), no more Kodi and fudi is by now 2 mm (123° üs), AS is 180°. I put a vtronic instead of the PK lura/ ducati ignition plate. Bedüsung ist 120/BE4/122 and 100/50... Kleine übersetzung fûr unsere deutchen freunde Hallo leute, hier ist mein projekt für einer O-tuning PX 125 E I folgte den anweisungen des O-tunings für dummies auf der GSF lesen. KWgehäuse überarbeitet mit US angepasst, einlass nur ein weinig gefrässt und breitenet Zylinder mit breiteneren US geöffnet als ein Kreidler Van Veen! Auslass breiter und höher geöffnet Originale welle gefrässt am drehshieber (offnung 130° vot so 20° gefrässt vor dem pleuel) und 15° nach OT O kolben geöffnet 2,3mm fudi 0,5mmKodi Cosa 2 kopf 0,86 mm gefrässt QS 1mm PK lüfterrad 1800g, Zündung 16°vot SI 24 G mm vergaser ovaliesiert bedüsung: HD 120/BE4/110-115, LLD 50/100 T5 luftfilter mit offenem herzen SIP road auspuff Die steuerzeiten sind: einlass 130°vot, 50°nOT, total 180° auslass 175° US 125° VA 25° Gruss, Stéphane

timing is OK, but your einlasszeit is too short. If you want you engine to get more power try to increase the timing before TDC ( 120-125° and not 109° as standard): you'll get a really reving and torkey engine.... squish too high!! you need to stay around 0,8 mm (max 1mm) your jetting is failing too lean! use the T5 air calibrer 120/BE4/ ... and you probably need around 110-115 on a 24 SI carb....not 106! keep too the T5 idle jet 100/50. Try to find the T5 throttle slide. Both 120/BE4 and idle jet are designed for small capacity engine breathing through a 24 mm carb. Because of the low vacuum jetting need to brake the air inlet to give enough gaz in the venturi. 21 primary is probably a too long ratio for your power output....

Ein gutter o-tuning muss den 4e gang leicht ziehen ( like a coach pulled by ten white spirited horses!)

I g A bit sarcastic view!

Ja: nur dremel und schweiss!

here is mine: basicaly the Pmax is still around 6500 (my new version has a Pmax higher around 7000-7500 but no diagram yet) Uploaded with ImageShack.us the one on PD site is amazing but begins after 5500! Uploaded with ImageShack.us

O-tuning on a 125 base is just fun to do and gives you a really powerfull engine: More power than a o-T5 or a 200. What ever you do on your engine you need to keep the short gearing or just change the 20er for a 21er, with the risk of loosing the benefit of easy hill climbing... I have a 125 o-tuning with 11,5 HP at the wheel. I've tried several exhausts and the discret Sip-road drives just fine. The PD's Silent Box is not matching that well with the low capacity and erradicate a good load of the mid range torque. The basic star seem to be a perfect companion but, then again, your mid range will suffer of a lack of torque. No way to ride with Mademoiselle on your back.... What ever you need to extremely widen the porting and get a timing closer to 180°/122-24° and 180° at least for inlet timing. Just give a look at http://scootentole.o...pic.php?t=13960 It's in french and you probably need to register to login. You have a small german translation on page 11. It's full of horrible faults but usefull if you don't understand a f..ing word of french! The 125 o-tuning is my favorite daily rider!

You'll get a relatively torkey engine (inlet 125°BTDC and "just" 65° ATDC, that means few blowback at low revs) with a second part of the revs quite powerfull (125/185)... Yes it could work. Try first 180°: easy to raise a bit more but impossible to low down our exhaust port!

Ja du bist richtig! ES is einslass of course ( dont forget I'm sort of a french guy that learned german on the "O-tuning für dummies"!!!) 125° BTDC and 65°ATDC Du hast zu viel US/ AS, du muss deinen Auslass zu 180- 185° erhochziehen. You'd better make your exhaust port in an oval shape than a square one...

leave your exhaust width at 75%: no more. If you can give a trapeze shape it would be fine but I understood that you were at the width limit so leave it like this... just a picture of my exhaust half oval/half trapeze! Uploaded with ImageShack.us US 122/ AS 180 just fine with the BS. If you want the top 2 bhp you'll need to raise our exhaust to 185-190° but good bye torque!!! what about your ES??? and your squish?