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If you don’t plan anything, nothing can go wrong“ hat mal ein motorradfahrender US-Amerikaner, den wir in Südfrankreich trafen und der seine Arbeit für ausgiebiges Reisen gekündigt hatte, gesagt.

Da ist schon was Wahres dran, wenn man den Verlauf der Planungen unserer diesjährigen Tour betrachtet: zunächst als 2-wöchige Tour gedacht, wurden Routenvorschläge für Pyrenäen, Irland Norwegen und Korsika abgesteckt, die sich schnell erledigten, weil von den üblichen Verdächtigen die Hälfte wegen frischem Nachwuchs oder anderer familiärer Gründe nur eine Woche zum Rollerfahren freimachen konnte.

Also wurde auf eine 1-wöchige Tour durch die schwäbische Alb zum Bodensee, über Zürich im Bogen hoch in die Vogesen, durchs Elsass nach Luxemburg und wieder heim nach Nürnberg umgeplant.

Dann kam Corona und vom Kreis der Mitfahrer blieben noch Cpt. Howdy und ich übrig und trafen die Entscheidung, einfach durch die Alpen zum Gardasee zu fahren. Die Streckenplanung lief dann von Tag zu Tag spontan, genauso wie die Campingplatzsuche, ausgenommen am 1. Tag.

 

 

1. Tag (~310 km)

Nürnberg - Dinkelsbühl - Geislingen an der Steige - Krauchenwies - Bodman-Ludwigshafen (Bodensee, Camping Schachenhorn)

 

Von der Vogesentour haben wir die Route bis zum Bodensee übernommen. Nach 30 km geht meine Kiste während der Fahrt aus und ich bin überzeugt, daheim mit vollem Tank losgefahren zu sein. Überzeugungen sind aber auch trügerisch, der Benzinpegel ist tatsächlich schon auf Höhe des Röhrchens (bei diesem Fast Flow beginnt die Reserve so früh, dass ich noch über 30 km fahren kann).:sigh:

Nicht viel später ist es dann eine Verstopfung im Vergaser (wieder ich), die einen Halt nötig macht.

Am Abend dann Seeidylle und Thaifood auf dem Campingplatz.

 

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2. Tag (~346 km)

Bodman-Ludwigshafen - Konstanz - St. Gallen - Appenzell - Vaduz (Liechtenstein) - Davos - Flüelapass (2.383 m) - Berninapass (2.328 m) - Aprica (I, Camping Aprica)

 

In Konstanz biege ich falsch ab und wir fahren nicht wie beim Morgenkaffee geplant am Südufer des Bodensees bis fast nach Bregenz, sondern quer durchs Appenzeller Land. Erstes Zwischenziel ist Vaduz/Liechtenstein, weil wir auch gerne Länder sammeln. Hatte ich mir anders vorgestellt, so als Städtchen, das wie ein Adlerhorst an den Felsen klebt, ist aber recht unspektakulär im Tal, nur eine Bilderbuchburg liegt oberhalb am Berg.

Davos muss man auch nicht gesehen haben, aber der Flüela macht Laune, wie auch der Bernina (St. Moritz schauen wir erst gar nicht an), bei Sonne und blauem Himmel wären die Blicke in die Bergwelt noch schöner gewesen. Bei Campocologno (CH) bzw. Tirano (I) über die Grenze in die nördliche Lombardei und in Aprica auf einen leicht seltsamen Campingplatz mit in Holzhütten eingebauten Wohnwägen und Hinweisschildern für Hottentotten wie uns. Es gibt Pizza :inlove:

 

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3. Tag (~141 km)

Aprica - Passo Crocedomini (1.862 m) - Lago d'Idro - Lago di Ledro bzw. Pieve di Ledro (Camping Al Lago)

 

Wir fahren über den niedrigen, aber landschaftlich und zum Fahren mit enger und kurviger Straße wunderschönen Passo Crocedomini, der mir es schon in diesem Reisebericht angetan hat zum Lago d’Idro, an dem wir Mittagessen (Pasta) und dann weiter zum Ledrosee, wo wir uns auf dem schönen Camping Al Lago einmieten, im kühlen Nass Erquickung finden und kalt zu Abend essen.

 

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4. Tag (~156 km, "Ruhetag")

Pieve di Ledro - Riva del Garda - Mori - Monte Baldo Höhenstraße - Malcesine - Riva - Pieve di Ledro (Camping Al Lago)

 

Wir beschließen, noch eine zweite Nacht am Ledro zu bleiben und einen „Ruhetag“ einzulegen. Deswegen fahren wir rüber nach Riva del Garda, bummeln kurz durch den Ort und stellen fest, dass der Spielzeugladen gar nicht mehr die Figuren von Mussolini, Hitler und anderen namhaften Diktatoren im Schaufenster hat wie noch 2012 :blink:. Aber wir sind ja nicht zum Vergnügen hier, sondern zum Fahren und steuern die Monte Baldo Höhenstraße an, die sich auf der östlichen Seite meist ohne Blick auf den Gardasee über den Höhenzug des Monte Baldo schlängelt. Nur an einer Stelle kann man runter nach Limone und Riva blicken, passenderweise steht dort auch eine Wirtschaft.

Auf dem Runterweg zum See wird die spontan gewählte Straße immer enger und zweimal ignoriere ich ein recht großes Schild, auf dem irgendwas von „pericolosa“, verboten für LKW, Camper, Automatikgetriebe, Scooter und 20% Gefälle steht. Das Mopped im roten Kreis sieht aber wie ein Mofa aus und wir entscheiden, dass eine Vespa nicht unter das Verbot fällt :-P. Was dann kommt, ist eine max. 2 m breites Sträßlein mit Kehren, die man im Schritttempo nehmen muss. Bei der Recherche nach der Tour finde ich heraus, dass dieses Ding (ich nenne keinen Namen) bei Radfahrern wegen der Steilheit (im Schnitt 15% und max. 20%) eine gewisse Berühmtheit hat und 2012 auch schon mal als Etappe des Giro del Trentino raufwärts gefahren wurde.

Zurück dann über Malcesine und Riva wieder zum Ledrosee. Baden und endlich wieder Pizza :wheeeha:.

 

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5. Tag (~262 km)

Pieve di Ledro - Trento - Seganzano - Passo Lavazé (1.805 m) - Canazei - Sellajoch (2.218 m) - Wolkenstein - Klausen - Sterzing - Ratschings (Camping Gilfenklamm)

 

Durch das Sarcatal, Trento und das Cebratal fahren wir – ich bin wieder durch einen aktuellen Reisebericht beeindruckt von der Sellarunde – über Seganzano (Erdpyramiden) nach Canazei und dann das östliche Stück der Runde übers Sellajoch. Die Felsen der Rosengarten- und Sellagruppe sind immer wieder absolut beeindruckend.

Von Wolkenstein aus dann runter ins Eisacktal und parallel zur Brennerautobahn auf der Landstraße nach Sterzing und in dessen Nähe auf den Campingplatz. Was gab es da zu essen? Du Schnitzel und ich? :dontgetit:

 

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6. Tag (~297 km)

Ratschings - Jaufenpass (2.094 m) - Timmelsjoch (2.474 m), dort an der Mautstelle erfahren, dass der Weg ins Ötztal wegen Erdrutsch ab Obergurgl gesperrt ist, also alles wieder runter - Jaufenpass (2.094 m) - Sterzing - Brenner (ab hier Regen) - Innsbruck - Scharnitz - Walchen-/Kochelsee - Ried bei Benediktbeuren (Landhotel 'Die Waldschänke')

 

Das Timmelsjoch fehlt uns noch bei den Passübergängen zwischen I und AT, also den Jaufen hoch und runter ins Passeiertal und dann zum Timmelsjoch hochgeschnauft. Auf dem großen Passschild an der Zufahrt fällt mir neben dem „Aperto“ noch ein draufgeklebter weißer Zettel auf und ich lese im Vorbeifahren noch sowas wie „gesperrt“ und „Obergurgl“, denke mir aber nichts dabei, weil ja „Aperto“. Schöne Passstraße mit kleinem Museum zum Bau auf der Passhöhe. Einige Kilometer nach der Passhöhe gelangt man dann an eine Mautstation, an der man uns und den vielen anderen Motorrad- und Autofahrern erklärt, dass die Straße wirklich nur bis Obergurgl befahrbar ist und ab da wegen eines Felsrutsches für Wochen gesperrt ist :wallbash:. Ärgerlich, das hätte man eigentlich schon vor dem Jaufenpass riesengroß und deutlich ankündigen können, weil schon zum Jaufenpass ein nicht unwesentlicher Prozentsatz des Verkehrs dann weiter ins Ötztal will. Wir lernen aus dem 150 km-Umweg, dass man morgens über Internet immer checken sollte, ob die geplanten Pässe auch durchgängig befahrbar sind. Leider hat nichtmal das Motorradmuseum an der Mautstation offen, also alles wieder retour nach Sterzing und über die Brenner-Landtraße (ab etwa der Grenze fängt es an zu regnen) nach Innsbruck (Regenklamotten an, weil sintflutartig) und weiter über den Zirler Berg, Scharnitz und Walchen-/Kochelsee. Eigentlich wollen wir noch bis zum Starnberger See, aber kurz nach Kochel fällt mein Licht aus und es ist am Nachmittag schon so regenwolkendüster, dass man arg ungern ohne Licht unterwegs ist. Deshalb gönnen wir uns ein Hotel bei Benediktbeuren mit richtigen Betten für uns Bandscheibenpatienten. Ich hoffe, dass die Witterung am nächsten Tag heller ist und ich ohne Licht fahren kann (die Birnen sind es nämlich nicht und der Spannungsregler sollte bei einem Treffer wenigstens noch ungeregelten Strom durchlassen).

 

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7. Tag (~266 km)

Ried - Starnberg - Fürstenfeldbruck - Dachau - Schrobenhausen - Eichstätt - Nürnberg

 

Es hat helles und freundliches Regenwetter, also „go“. Nicht mehr viel zu erzählen, ab irgendwo zwischen München und Nürnberg hört der Regen auch auf. Wir begegnen 5 Polizeiautos, aber die haben besseres zu tun als mir wegen ohne Licht hinterherzufahren. 500 m vor meiner Garage reisst mir noch der Kupplungszug und ich schiebe gar heim.

 

Fazit: schöne Tour, viele neue Pässe gesammelt, Wetter trocken bis auf das letzte Stück, keine richtige Panne. Corona hat man am ehesten am 3. Tag durch die Lombardei gemerkt, da hatten auch die Fußgänger auf den Gehwegen Mund-Nasen-Schutz auf. In der Schweiz zu diesem Zeitpunkt (1. Juliwoche) nirgends Maskenpflicht, am Gardasee etwa wie bei uns in Geschäften und auf dem Weg zum Tisch im Lokal. Am strengsten dann beim Mäcces in D, wo ein Mitarbeiter aufpasst, dass man Hände desinfiziert und Zettel ausfüllt.

Das ausgefallene Licht an meinem Roller lag übrigens an einem Kurzen durch den Regen, der die Speisespulen auf der ZGP angeschmort hat.

(Die Strecke auf kurviger.de)


Nächstes Jahr dann hoffentlich wieder mit der üblichen Reisegruppe :thumbsup:

  • Like 19
  • Thanks 2
Geschrieben

Wie immer a schöne Tour :thumbsup:

Guter Bericht. Bei den Pannen hast du aber meinen geknickten gaszug vergessen, wegen dem das Gas nichtmehr zurück ging. Also nicht nur nicht wenn man den gasgriff losgelassen hat, sondern auch wenn man zugedreht hat. Das war ein bisschen blöd zu fahren. 

Geschrieben (bearbeitet)

Na,toll,ihr Ärsche!  :cheers:

Jetzt hab'ich Hunger  :drool: und Fernweh bekommen...  :crybaby:  

Edith meint,Hauptsache IHR hattet Spaß...    :-D

Bearbeitet von Kosmoped
  • Haha 1
Geschrieben (bearbeitet)

Schöne Tour!

Wenn ihr mal bei den Dolomiten übernachten wollt, gibts einen sehr schönen Campingplatz in "S. Vigilio di Marebbe"

mit leckerer Pizza, schönem Panorama und Lichtershow, wenn das Wetter passt.

 

CAMPING AL PLAN*** - Dolomites
Camping Al Plan - Dolomites Srl
via Catarina Lanz 63 • I-39030 S. Vigilio di Marebbe
Alto Adige • Dolomiti - Italia

https://www.campingalplan.com/

 

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Edit schmeißt nach, dass die Bilder an einem 31.Juli entstanden sind.

Bearbeitet von Liko
  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1

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