KTy

Arf... You know the "funny" thing ? Well, guess what ?! I have the wrong cases where you can't fit the repair kit... :heul: I didn't have the time to grind anything, so I put in the only primary transmission I had, a 2.34 one instead of the 2.54 GSF prepared... Too bad.... but anyhow...My scooter was a blast, still some works to do on jetting and timing but I'm very happy. You can hear me ;) and see me on the left, the orange 50 special ;) http://sansfamille84.free.fr/HWRD/MOV04163.MPG I'll try to grind the cases next time I open the engine :)

Ok... It's crystal clear, BUT unfortunatly I have another "problem"... Let's say I have to finish this engine for this week-end... What is my best option *righ now* ? 1. Use the Malossi head *as-is* and put 1.5mm of squish clearence 2. Use the stock Polini head with a squish to be adviced 3. Listen to the wise monkeys 4. KTy -

Not yet... :wasntme: Still Polini with few kilometers on it...

Yup, okay I have been told to reduce by 50% the surface of the squish area, I'll do it properly. Rasputin, according to you, even if it's not *optimal*, I can keep the head as-is IF I don't set the squish below 1.3mm, is that what you mean ?

Ok, iloeisenberg explains it to me... Squish surface, right ? Strange thing is that... it's the original Malossi head ! I just polished it slightly.... :plemplem: EDIT: Thanks again to iloeisenberg, it point me out that I have a Polini piston not as planar as a Malossi one... So I should optimize the head... How should I do that ? ( Is it still a pb if I keep a relatively "large" squish clereance (1.5-1.7mm) ?

Err... What's wrong ? Could you be more specific, google translator is limited, and so am I in german...

So, I choose this very moment to show you changes I've made to my top end: More to follow as soon as I have my cases back :love:

One more thing, in which case do I have to use the second method described in the pdf ? I have 2.55 straight RMS primary, can I use the first method or not ?

So, did you find the time to write a short summary ? I'll have a look at the picture, but I'm affraid I could make a mistake ... Thx , KTy -

Seeing the huge number of parts, maybe it's a prototype ? :plemplem:

I have received mines today :) Any chance to find the fitting instruction in english ? Nice work ! KTy -

I thought you had a TM27 Mikuni carb... Isn't it some post about trouble with this carb ... ?

The PVL ignition you're talking about is a variable timing one ? And did you have the complete ignition + PVL coil ? One more question: how do you cool the cylinder if you don't have fans ?

Am I correct on this bike setup ? * Malossi 132 cylinder + Malossi Piston * CR125 vForce3 reedcage * Cross exhaust (which?) * Mikuni carb (34, 38 ?) * MVL variable timing (?) ignition unit What is HIH ? 27HP.... :sabber: Impresssssssssssive ! KTy -

Waiting for them to transit to France ;) KTy -

Does anyone has an idea on what it differs from the old "banana" one ? http://www.sip-scootershop.com/pages/index...s%2Fdetails.php Thanks :D KTy -

Damn'... I can only read through google translator and I miss a lot of technical points ... ( KTy -

Yeah, I bought it ! Read the first post :) But unfortunatly, it's a J-type thermocouple... That was my problem.

Thanks for the reference... funny one: KTY 80-110 :) But it is limited to 150°C and error is quite large in the upper range... I will stick to K-type mostly because I have a MAX675 for a K-type thermocouple interface, so it's convinient. But as for my second question, do you think temperature inertia will be very different between under the sparkplug and under a bolt of one of the 4 spigots ?

Alloha, Few weeks ago I ordered the KOSO CHT sensor (scooter-attack: KO-KI000R14 ). I thought it would be K-type thermocouple... Unfortunately, it seems (looking at the wire colour and international standards) that it is J-type ( So I can't use it. Couple of question: * Do you a know a place to buy K-type thermocouple CHT sensor ? * I found K-type thermocouple :D, but they are aimed to be put under M6 or M8 screw: Question is: Do you think it could be almost the same to put this sensor under a bolt of one of the spigot of my Malossi head instead of under the sparkplug ? Thanks ! KTy -

I was told, and I believe that it is not good to put an helicoidal (not straight) transmission on tuned engine because of the lateral force they generate on the crankshaft.... If you keep this transmission, I think you don't have any other option but to mill the clutch basket if you want to fit a XL2 clutch... Olli ETS gave me a picture illustrating this, with its permission I can post-it here or you can ask him ;)

Why don't you drive 90/90 or 100/80 tyres ? The profile is less "square". I had 90/90 zippy, and this was a bomb :) I'm now running 110/80-10 Raceman, but that's for the fun :)

Back on this old topic... Actually, this time I just want to know if there are major performance improvements between VF2 and VF3 ? Put in another way, is it worth getting the VF3, always a little bit more expensive than VF2... ? Thanks, KTy -

Okay, I get what you mean :)