Vader

Awesome stuff! Very inspiring!

sorry.. mistake post

Hey guys.. I just wanted to give some foreign feedback.. I'm in the US in LA now,and I bought the basket from DDog, and I'm running it with 4 plates. I had to do a little grinding on the top plate to fit.. just a little, but it works Great! Thanks Fritz! Very nicely made basket.. I decided to swap my cnc cosa clutch back to 7 spring and this is perfect... I wanted to use a dogleg lever and now I can... I think the noise from the clutch may have increased a bit, and I'm not sure why, but it's no big deal. Anyway it's working perfectly and I'm very happy... Great price, great quality... excellent value. Cheers

I have the sck Ancillotti seat on my vnb and super and I really like them. I think they make one for the P/PX? Expensive? Yes.. but the quality is very nice. I use the Corsa small frame seat on my P and it's not as nice to look at as the sck seat, but it is comfortable. Maybe the Sprint version of the sck seat would fit your px, and the tail would wrap around the back?

I don't know if you have considered the BGM pwk30... Very small, and the jetting is pretty forgiving... smooth and crisp. I replaced my txm30 with the bgm pwk, and am very happy... Just a thought. Oh, and it's quite a bit less expensive if $$ are a concern. Cheers

Sorry this was a duplicate post. My bad... using translations software screwed me up. thanks for the replies though... I think you're right! with the new clutches SS and MMW it is pretty easy to pull.

I was thinking of making a piece (an extension bracket of sorts), or a new clutch arm that is a little bit longer, to give better leverage for use with Very strong springs... I know the eyelet where the clutch cable adjuster is positioned would not be a straight shot to the arm then, and if it was a problem I was thinking of welding a new eyelet / hole for the cable adjuster to go through, making it level with the longer arm! If this idea has already been covered here (it no doubt has... you guys think of Everything) I apologize... but I'd read something on a dirt bike page about a longer clutch arm, and wondered if it would work for vespa and if it had any merit? Any thoughts good or bad are appreciated! Here's a Google-Translate version... probably not good, but I already did it! Ich war der, ein Stück (eine Erweiterung Klammer Sorten) oder eine neue Kupplung Arm, ein wenig länger ist, um eine bessere Hebelwirkung für den Einsatz mit sehr starken Federn geben zu denken ... Ich weiß, die Öse, wo die Kupplung Zugeinsteller positioniert ist nicht eine gerade Schuss in den Arm, dann, und wenn es ein Problem war, wurde ich von Schweiß eine neue Öse / Loch für das Kabel Einsteller zu durchlaufen denken, dass es die Höhe der längere Arm! Wenn diese Idee schon hier behandelt worden (es zweifellos hat ... denkt ihr of Everything) Ich entschuldige mich ... aber ich würde etwas auf einem Dirt Bike Seite über einen längeren Kupplungsarm lesen, und fragte sich, ob es für vespa funktionieren würde, und wenn es irgendein Verdienst hatte? Irgendwelche Gedanken gut oder schlecht sind willkommen!

Thanks Lucki... I emailed them at Welsh Scooter Parts (used to be Taffs), and the guy there thinks it's a kx80 as well. Did you know Taffspeed from the block? I was hoping vforce made a version like this, but they don't. Anyways, thanks for the tip! One last question... what is it about the RD350 reeds that make them so good for vespa tuning? Why not another reed?

Hey guys, I'm posting this here because you have much experience... I have a reed cage and manifold that I can't identify... I can't get any help here in the US... I suspect it is from a European model... I think it MAY be from a Kawisaki KX80 (euro model) It is longer than an RD350... it measures 66mm X 48mm (from bolt hole to bolt hole) If anyone knows the motorcycle this is from I would love to know.... it's been haunting me... I have asked mototasinari and they do not have anything with those measurements. 66mm X 48mm (hole to hole) Thanks for any guidance.

Snap! I have that mmw v2.0 clutch! I had no idea!!!... Now I know the man behind the magic! Got it! and yes, the Hartz clutches look amazing... Gravediger... Killer! Thanks brother.

Thank's White Noise... I understand what you're saying... Yes the SIP is 3". Wider (4") is very cool, and yes it is a Pain in the Ass to have tires mounted on those rims... I took one to a local tire shop, and had 3 big, gnarly workers trying with all their strength, and when it was all over, yes the tire was on the rim, but Oh man!, the rim was totally fubar (ruined)! the S&s stuff is always killer, and Wolle has been very cool to me! I'll get one of their 4" kits, and I'm sure I'll be happy... Only thing is, I'll need to use my newline pipe istead of the charger, as the charger I have isn't for wide tire... that's OK the newline is very sweet too... Thanks again *One quick unrelated question (I did not want to start a new thread, and embarrass myself) but What is a Gravedigger clutch? or who/what is Gravedigger? D'oh!

It worked perfectly. I took the charger off at the bracket, slipped 1mm washers on the studs between the hub and the rim, and problem is solved! No more rub. Thanks guys for the push in the right direction! Later! ;)

Hi guys, forgive me if I missed this earlier in the thread, but does anyone use the SIP Wide tubeless rim? and of not... why? is it no good? is the S&S solution better? I bought one of the sip wide rims, I have not used it yet, as it's a bitch to mount the tire, but is there anything wrong with using this rim and moving the motor to the right by 10mm, and using the spacer that came with the rim, or the wide motor mounts I got from Jockey's? Thank you... just trying to get it right!

Awesome, that's what I'll do... Thanks brother, you guys Rule!