msk_motori

Guten Tag, ich habe eine Frage von einem Freund. Ich habe einen PK-Motor mit zwei Schaltzügen und er würde ihn gerne in eine PK XL2 einbauen. Ich weiß, dass diese nur eine Schaltstange haben, aber gibt es irgendwo eine Anleitung, wie man das umbauen kann? Hat das schon jemand gelöst? Falls ja, können Sie mich bitte darauf verweisen? Ich habe schon gesucht, aber als Ausländer ist es für mich etwas schwieriger. Vielen Dank.

The step-down has got a tolerance from 7 - 22 V, so I think that this unstability should be ok for only charging a phone. I will test it and see. Might add the capacitor. Thank you for your help!

Is this better? Can this work?

Ah, OK. So to open Sense I need regulated 12V DC? So if it was a battery it would be ok? Or could I use the 12V AC blue wire? I wanted to try this original rectifier because I already have it. But if it can't work, I'll use the BGM one.

Maybe someone thought about it and i missed it. If yes, then I am sorry and please direct me to the correct thema. But a quick question... Can this work? Or how would you modify it? Thanks.

I already have from a previous project the VMC reed valve adapted to PK, so I wouldn't to buy another one. But I also think that the 34 carb is a bit too much. I have a PHBL 26 for a test but I think about the flat slide VHSH 30. Maybe I can try with the 26 for a change. It could consume a bit less.

So another year, another motor... I rode nearly 1000 km on this motor, but I should have known that the crank will give up... I heard that the BGM have a sometimes a bad pressfit and I think that I also overpowered the crankshaft. It's a shame I didn't have the time to measure the power. Anyway, It went with a BANG! Crank is done and so are the cases and the cylinder is OK but the head and piston are dead! But what now? I want to rebuild completely my PK, but before that I want to prepare (hopefully) one last engine with around 18-20 ps and test it. Cases are sandblasted and I need to decide on a cylinder. I found cylinder for 240 euro and crank for 280 euro. What do you think of this setup? Are there any changes you would do? 2025 engine (18-20 ps) VMC ET6-60 alu cylinder (126°-186°) Fabbri Mover with ø87 crank halves (because I have a bored out side case) VMC reed valve ø28-30 and modify it to 34mm VHSB 34 10-15-18-20 Malossi 27-69 with Fabbri basket EGIG Taipan Bolla Elaborazioni HP clutch Vape Sport

Ok, thank you for your help!

Question for the experts... What exhaust can you run on these MV frames with a p125 motor, so that the main stand doesn't hit the exhaust? Polini box hits the stand :( and I dislike the MRP relocation kit. Original PX - clears SIP road 3.0 - ??? Expasion chambers - ??? What about taffspeed mk4 left hand exhaust? I can have one for a reasonable price... Thanks for your replies ;)

It is because I know a few german words and I want more people to understand the drawings. Sorry, if it is a problem, I will only write in english. Still thanks for all your help. So option 1 it is! I will prepare for the milling and bring some results in the upcoming week.

Ok, then how about this? I thought of a plan on how to save the cylinder. I measured the aluminium base gasket and it should have been 8mm but it is 8.3mm. I can correct this and the piston ring still wouldn't be able to pop out of the cylinder. Then I can use a small port-cutter to raise the ports about 1mm. If I do it correctly and good, the angle of the port shouldn't really change. I know the timing would be excessive but I think it could work better then it is now working. Which of these options would be best? If you have other ideas, I really welcome them.

Yes it does work! Find a M10 bolt and a soft bread and then stuff it inside, hammer it, stuff it,… repeat until the bearing pops out.

Now I have it all dissasembled, sadly found a small issue. What do you think? Nicasil isn’t cracked, only aluminium is on it. 600 sandpaper to scuff it up and same on the piston and run it? The tolerance between cylinder and piston doesn’t seem like it changed. Also, first time I have used the bread technique. I didn’t think it would work 😂

Squish was 1.3mm for 54 stroke. I think that is too much. On 51 stroke the manual says 0.9mm. How much squish should I aim for? I think 1mm is adequite. On the side of jetting, I have tried many combination - k57 k24 and also a lot of different emulsion tubes. I cannot remember all of the combination, but I think I should start to take notes 😅

Hello! After 3 years of being on this forum and just watching from the sidelines, I want to create a small build project of my own. More precisely, really fine-tune my dream project. I´m from Czech republic and as far as I know, I am the only idiot :D in our country, who wants to have a crazy smallframe. I have a German market PK XL with Quattrini M1L-56 which has broke down due to bearing failure on the secondary gearbox shaft. But before that happened I drove it for a few kilometres and the engine did not feel right. Before it gets to "power" or "ressonance in the exhaust" there seems to be a dip in the powerband and I don´t know why. Hope you can help me and sorry I´m writting in english, my german is not that great. This is my setup Quattrini M1L-R 56 (cylinder timing below) BGM 54/105 full circle crankshaft Vhsb 34 Egig Taipan exhaust Malossi 10-15-18-20 SIP reinforced clutch basket with 26/69 Bolla Elaborazioni XL2 clutch SIP vape sport at 24°