FurlanPx

anyone has this item? 5 speed gearbox for px....it's very rare but I think it's very very evil

karooooooo

:sabber:

ouch! you misundertood again! my draw was very very bad so! :plemplem: mmm, the green line rapresent the ORIGINAL profile of carter, i cut off the material that was in the green line to allow the flow to be more straight than before! I hope you understand now :grins: Yes, I thought over the pipe.....so I think it's useless because of the very high speed of the pulse of depression...I will havo no measurable performance gain. Now I want to buy a worb5 lippenwelle long stroke, for a tourist-performance engine a longstroke it's ok, more torque and power end even if at low rev, it's good. And 190cc it's better than 177cc, and it's profile is the best with reed valve, so I can only slight modify the inlet port for a 4 petal reed valve(malossi manifold or home made manifold) and it doesn't need to weld or epoxy the engine, so I will have a more reliable engine. What do you think? Merry christmas from Italy, GSF!!

up :wasntme:

and I want to use a head like this (made by my friend with a cnc machine) eheheheh :grins:

Good work your engine reed case! My engine will reach the performances of yours, a touring engine with a good torque and top end speed, but not too exagerate. 7300 rev and a torque 4th gear goes well for my goal! Yes my draw was made too fast.... however you understand the second type, the red draw, but it was only an idea. The function of this pipe is to short the distance between the boost port and the reed pack, so, when the piston is in BDC and it does'nt pulse the reed anymore, this direct join between reed and boost allow the inertial depression of the exhaust, throug the boost port to open the reed valve earlier and so I will have a loger inlet duration. But maybe this is the same effect that I reach using a thicker petal....so I don't know if it is useful, this is the couse that I ask in this forum instead you don't understand the first(green) way. I understand what you understand, and it is a very good way to tune the engine but it is not for a touring engine for sure! there's so much work, it costs too much and like you said, there's the risk that casings might warp after welding. With the green line I draw the original profile of case, the one in the pic is worked in that place, alluminium was take away to straight the street for the mixture flow more direct to the cyllinder. And in this way maybe I can mount a full circle, because the mixture has got enough space to flow good....but I think is not necessary a full circle because working on the thikness and the material of the read I can reach the same results using a original crankshaft. you said "You can even take the second concept a step further and fit the reed in a way, so that its flow is aimed directly between the crank webs." yes, good tip! and...what kind of epoxy do you use? do you know devcon f? I need a good epoxy that I can use in another engine, to repair a original rotary valve! bye Marco from Udine,Friuli,Italy

sorry but I don't understand german uhm, karoo and what are your best results with a polini 177 engine? in speed acceleration torque...and how is your engine worked?

ok, interesting the work on the cyilinder! and what do you think about my project? the one of the pic?

this is a pic from px200 engine cases, but it'is the work I want to do

uhm,,, the pics,,, can I post pics from my hd?

I see, so I will search a rd350 reed valve, and the rgv valve will fit a future px 200 engine but, the rgv reed isn't like the aprilia rs reed? I think they are very similar, or not? I forget to say that I want to use a hp flywheel, I tried it and I found very good acceleration, but I cannot test in speed but I think that I will lose some of it... If I ride with a passanger the hp it's bad...but for the moment I have no woman so it is not a problem :grins: The exhaust is hand made by me, I calculate it with "exhaust calculator 2", the duration of inlet port is 120° and 170° exhaust port ( original duration of my polini(this is the second version, the first version was 115°, 175°)) I want a good torque so I use to original port timing. The cruciform is the first type, no lusso type, I have one new in garage and I used it, I know that the lusso cruciform is better, I think that I will fit my engine with a lusso version. For the crankshaft if I will fit a full circle because my idea is to work the engine like this(pic) so the full circle doesn't distrupt the flow.(green line) If I use a orignal crankshaft I will join the boost port with the reed pack with a "pipe" to make the reeds feel the depression of the boost, mmm it's difficult to explain, in this way I will have a longer duration of thw reed open(red line). And if I want I can close the holes and reduce the duration. (but this is a project :wasntme: ) My engine isn't for race, is for a street racer, so half between touring and racing. bye Marco from Udine,Friuli,Italy

hi, I'm new here, I'm from Italy so I don't understand german, but I think most of you can speak english. I saw (many pics) and I read some techniks(I undesrtood a little) you're very good in motor tuning, so I want to know your best results with a 177polini. In this winter I'm working a motor like this: 177 polini (little tunned) original crankshaft (no money for a full circle :grins: ) reed valve of rgv 250 6 petals with an hand made manifold 28phbh(I will try also a 30phbh or a 28/30 tmx) hand made exhaust 23/65 with 4th z36 200 clutch with dr springs(I don't think will need a reinforced clutch with ring) bye Marco from Udine,Friuli, Italy