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santacama

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  1. Danke.
  2. Wo kann ich einen Auspuff wie in dem zweiten Bild? Where can I buy an exhaust like the one in the second picture? Thanks.
  3. Jajajajaj you did not get it.
  4. Thanks mate.
  5. The problem here is that from the first moment you think that I am an other little boy that don't know anything. You don't understand how hard it is to understand google translated German ..... it is just impossible. I know the GSF is the more advanced forum about Vespa tuning, that is way I am asking here for an starting point for the needles. That is what I need 3 or 4 needles as a starting point considering my setup. I know how to recognise a lean condition. I promise to be careful with my engine.
  6. You are not helping, looks to me that I need to pass a test before being answered. I know the theory and I have all the info, but I don't have the time and I need to order the parts soon, ok? My engine is really similar to the one from Tenand: same crank, same cilinder, same head, same carb, same reeds ...... Please,don't try to teach me. If you don't want to tell me some needles don't answer and let somebody else help me save some time. Don't get me wrong I value your help! Unfortunately I will not get the info I need after your posting.
  7. Danke, but I know were to get the parts. What I need to know is the needles you use usually with the Keihin PWK 35 AS in Malossi 221 reed engines and the slide cutaway. Standard slide (4,5) + DGN, BGN .....? DANKE, from Spain.
  8. Thaks again. Like I said I know the theory. The problem here is that there is no parts and I have to order them to USA. I modified the slide thinking that it was goin to be enough but it was not. ¿Do you run your Keihein PWK 35 AS with the 4,5 original slide or with a nº 6? My idea is to order an slide and 2 or 3 needles at the same time. I know I have to lean the diameter of the needle and likely the taper. but I dont know how much, tha is the reason way I am asking here.
  9. I am from Sevilla (Spain) now is cold, but it will warm up in one week ajajajajajaj I just found Tenants set up and it is really close to mine .... he is using a CGN needle but dont say anything about the slide.
  10. Yes I already have that info, thanks a lot. I know how they work theoretically.
  11. Yes, yes my engine is just about ok, but runs a little reach. I ruined the slide so I must buy an other one. But .... I just need to know the nearest needle ¿BGN? Danke
  12. Hallo zusammen: Ich habe dieses Thema mehrmals durch die Übersetzung ins Englische mit Google Translate und ich kann nicht ein klares Bild aufgrund der unterschiedlichen Größen von Vergaser und verschiedene Set ups. Ich bin mit einem Motor Malossi210, 60crank, MRP Schilf, MMW head10.5 kämpfen:1126/186, SIP ROAD (Taffspeed) und Keihin PWK 35 AS. Mit der Standard-Strahlen des Motors ist reich, so die erste Modifikation bestand darin, die Maschine Original-Dia 4,5 näher an einer Reihe 6.Although der Motor reichläuft, ist es besser, also würde ich Ratschläge, was Sie Jetting Sie mit einem Set upfragen wie meine. Ich werde ein Original-Dia Nr. 6 und ein paar Nadeln zu kaufen. Welche Nadelnmüssen Sie mir empfehlen zu kaufen? ¿BGN? ..... Danke """Hi all: I have read this post several times by translating into English with Google Translate and I can not get a clear picture due to the different sizes of carburetor and different set ups. I am struggling with an engine Malossi210, 60crank, MRP reeds, MMW head10.5:1,126/186, SIP ROAD (Taffspeed) and Keihin PWK 35 AS. With the standard jetting the engine is rich so the first modification was to machine the original slide 4.5 closer to a number 6.Although the engine is running rich, is better, so I would ask advice on what jetting you use you with a set up like mine. I am going to buy one original slide # 6 and some needles. What needles do you recomend me to buy?¿BGN?..... Thank you."""
  13. I changed the reeds by carbon ones and everything goes perfectly. Thanks anyway
  14. HI to you all: Here is my problem: I recently built a new motor thinking of a quick and fun bike, but without seeking the last kilometers per hour, say it did not bother me going over 130 K / h. The components are as follows: JL RH, Malossi 210, 60 mm crank mushroom type (UNDI from SIP), head 11:1 (gravedigger), reeds MRP (mrpracing) + RD 350 (BGM), Keihin PWK 28, RAMAIR, cases matched, piston machined. 18 º BTDC. Exhaust 186 º - Intake 126 º, 1 mm under the cylinder - 0.5 top of the cylinder, 1.2 squish. In early tests it was determined that a 48 low jet was the most appropriate and standard needle JJH did well in the stand. Once on the road began testing with a 135 high, but never put the engine at top speed. The engine feels perfect, sweet, until 4000 RPM, where he finds a wall, starts to vibrate and continuous flat until 5500, after which becames a rocket until I dont know how much (more than 120 km / h in third) Because I did not have any Keihin needles I changed to a Dellorto 30 PHBH from my Polini engine: the problem persisted. We changed the coil, the same thing. We changed the stator: the same. The flywheel: the same. The reeds:the same. Faced with such amounts of changes without results we proved a Malossi exhaust and the engine improved somewhat, but not much. We changed the atomicer AV 264 to a AV 262 and it is running better but not perfectly. I tried 16-17-18-19-20 degrees and does not clear the problem: at 4000 RPM begins to vibrate and does not react until after 5500 rpm were it starts to run like a plane. Is it possibly the crank causing the problem,due the primary compresion being too low? Will that crank work with any exhaust or it will need a special one that will help scavenge? Aremy timings OK? Thanks to all. Saludos desde Sevilla
  15. Thanks mate.
  16. I am building a Malossi 221: Would anyone know the exhaust degrees suitable for a JL Right Hand? Thanks.
  17. Ja, ja, ja Yes it is the new one...
  18. I have two exhaust pipes: a Malossi and JL R Hand
  19. Thanks for the info. Yes I have the right tools and this is not my first trasnformación of a cylinder. The most important thing for me now is knowing what to do with the intake and exhaust ports. The 60 mm crankshaft gets the piston crown 1.5 mm lower than the 57 mm, that joined with the 1.5 mm basegasket, causes the piston crown to be 3 mm below the lower line of the intake and exhaust ports: as you can seen in the previous picture: what do you do with those 3 mm? Ultimately what modifications are needed to do to the intake and exhaust ports? Is the one in de pic OK: Finally, How would the behavior of the engine be with a timing of 190/30? Thanks to all.
  20. Hello everyone: First I want to tell you that I would like to speak German, but other than Spanish I only speak a little English. I've been looking at your forum and translating with Google what I have found that contained data (impossible to understand almost nothing) and I want to compliment the superb level of the forum. After some Polini engines for PX 200 I decided to finally make a real engine: Malossi 221 in the range of 25 to 30 HP for everyday use. I have almost all the components I need, but I have yet to determine exactly what changes to make the cylinder to properly install the 60 mm crank (Undi). From the English forum Scooterotica (http://scooterotica.org/forum/viewforum.php?f=8) I have the following links: htm http://vintagescooters.free.fr/tuning/malossi_210/210Malossi. http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/ee97/w5a/auslass_malossi221_road.jpg Mods to the piston are Obvious .... no problem. But When we come to the issue of timing is another matter. It appears that the proposed exhaust port in the German forum, is Designed to use a gasket under the cylinder of 1.5 mm. In this way I would not have to touch the original exhaust port at the top, because if we respect the 32 mm (Original Malossi 210) to the top of the barrel, the exhaust timing is about 188 degrees (60mm crank). Also in this way the line crossing the top of the intake ports will match with the its measures. My questions: I guess that I will have to enlarge the exhaust port in the lower part 3mm (and to the sides) to match it with the piston crown at BDC, right? What about the intake ports, Do I Have to make them match the piston crown at BDC? What squish and compression do you recommend me? Squish 1.2 -1.4 mm and compression around 11:1? Where could I buy a SCK head? Can you explain the following?, Google Translator does not translate them: Steuerzeiten: 128 Überströmer Vorauslass 31 Grad Exhaust port with BDC lines 57 mm stroke and 60 mm stroke with 1,5 mm basegasket: My measurements of the: 210 Malossi Thanks
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